Underground Update: Terrain and Airbrush Musing

For quite some time now I’ve heard raving reviews about airbrushing. Being the stubborn ass that I am, I refused to jump on the bandwagon. However after much carful consideration (and an ever growing pile of models that needed to get done quickly) I decided to take the plunge. I figured the best place to start practicing would be terrain, namely my Underground Lasers Kickstarter terrain. Here’s some pics of what I’ve been working on along with some babble about my entry into the world of airbrushing.

BBQ Lizard

Underground Lasers, BBQ Lizard Stand

Before I continue, I should mention that I’ve been working with Francisco, the owner of Underground Lasers, for some time on his latest Kickstarter project. You can view pictures here. Those models are really my first go at using an airbrush and I think my technique has improved a lot since then.

ShogunBurger

Underground Lasers, Shogun Burger Shack

 

Back then I was using low budget equipment and a loud-ass, smelly compressor. I bought it from a friend and it smelled like a moldy basement whenever I turned it on. A few months later, I purchased an entire set of Bagder Minitaire Airbrush Paint and a Badger Sotar 20/20 airbrush. Holy rusted metal Batman, what a difference!

 

Underground Lasers, Barricades

Underground Lasers, Barricades

 

If you’re a frugal individual like myself, then you hate feeling uncertain about any investment, much less an expensive one. That being said, if you plan on getting into airbrushing, I recommend buying the most expensive machine you can afford. You’ll be better off for it. The set up I ended up with was $300 to $400 (USD) and I don’t regret it.

Underground Lasers, Containers

Underground Lasers, Containers

Also, do yourself a favor and don’t bother mixing your own paint. It’s extremely tedious, time consuming and frustrating. Purchase a set of legit airbrush paint in a few colors (black, gray, white and some primary colors are a good start). Most of all practice and experiment!

Haqq-Groupshot

Thanks for reading and happy painting.

Voodoo Ninja

Exciting things are in the works! My friend Alex Cheparev asked me to create a character for him to model in 3D for his YouTube channel. Once he’s done, we’re getting it 3D printed then I’ll paint it up for my upcoming YouTube channel. Should be pretty cool! Here’s the concept sketch and Alex’s Video. Make sure to Subscribe to his channel for all of your Maya tutorial needs!

VoodooNinja-Sketch

Voodoo Ninja Sketch

This is Voodoo Ninja. Think black magic meets Pinocchio. I wanted to create a character with a variety of textures and a little humor. Thus the wood grain on the arms, the bandages and you can’t go wrong with a big old skull head. The plan is to add ball and socket joints in the shoulders and removable pins as weapons.


Alex is already off to a great start and it’s amazing to see how quickly he can make this character come to life. I can’t wait for the final results. It’s going to look so bad ass! Thanks for reading and keep being creative. ;-)

Holy Rusted Metal!

Metal is hard to maintain. It get’s gritty, looses it’s luster, accumulates rust and eventually falls apart but that’s why we love it. It grows character with age. In this post I’ll cover my technique for painting my favorite of all metals, the rusted kind. Come sit, and paint with me.

Rust1Firstly, I designed these 55mm bases for use on some of my Infinity models. By using sheets of platicard, corrugated cardboard, aluminum wire, and even a BIC pen, I was able to create an industrial look. I highly recommend trying this project out to any hobbyist. Just go nuts and have fun.

Rust2Once the bases were built I spray painted them using Army Painter’s Platemail Metal. It’s not the best surface to paint on being that it’s so glossy, so I also sprayed a coat of clear matte varnish over it.

Rust3Next is a heavy wash of P3’s Battledress Green. I like to mix in a little bit of Liquitex’s Flo-Aid to keep the paint flowing a bit more evenly.

 Rust4Another wash of P3’s Battledress Green. This time I try to focus more on the recesses.
Rust5Here I applied a heavy dry-brush of Citadel’s Iron Breaker to help bring back the shiny. Rust6To create that signature reddish rust color I applied a wash of P3’s Bloodstone. Once again focusing on the recesses and crevasses.  Rust7To add more contrast and grit, I carefully applied a wash of Citadel’s Agrax Earthshade. Rust8Next I used a careful application of RMSP’s Brown Liner. This helps define the edges and enhance the details. Rust9 Finally, I go back with some Citadel Iron Breaker using a fine detail brush to pick out some of the edges of the metal. I also painted the sheets of “paper” on the base using some browns and tans.
See, not too shabby looking and not very difficult to do. Try this out on your metals. You can easily apply these techniques to any metal color. Perhaps patinated copper, or burnished brass. Thanks for reading and happy painting!

Send in the Fleet!

Back in December 2013 I wrote a post about a Kickstarter for Temporus the Game that I was painting some models for. Check out the original post here for the prototype and color recipe. Well, the Kickstarter was successfully funded, which means I had 4 large and 5 small replicas of the same ship to paint up ASAP. Here’s a picture of the final product. The large versions are about 5″ long and the small about 2.5″ long.

Temporous Cruisers

Temporus Cruisers

When I shipped away the package it gave me an opportunity to add some extra promo swag for the blog. I figured the backers who received these hand painted goodies would like to see a little bit more of my stuff (shameless plug tee-hee). I’m gonna start making more of these to bring to conventions and such just to get my name out there.

OSO promo

OSO promo

A huge thanks to my good friend Alex Cheparev for referring me for the project and to Erik Umenhofer for trusting me to painting these awesome models. Make sure to check out Temporus the video game. Later space cadet!

Fleshy Bits: Purple

Come play with my fleshy bits! Hehe. Welcome to the first of hopefully many more posts I’ll be writing covering how to paint flesh tones. One of the members of a Facebook group that I help admin requested this one (thanks for the idea Ulises).
When it comes to painting flesh I’ve found that starting with a cool tone and working your way up to a warm tone makes for a more believable effect. Please excuse my slightly crappy iPhone pics.
Gooey

1. Basecoat- GW Genesealer Purple
2. Wash- GW Xereus Purple
3. Touch Up- GW Genesealer Purple
4. Highlight- GW Genesealer Purple/Ungor Flesh (75/25)
5. Highlight- GW Genesealer Purple/Ungor Flesh (50/50)
6. Highlight & Wash- GW Genesealer Purple/Ungor Flesh (25/75) followed by some detailed shading with Leviathan Purple

There you have it. See what kind of bizarre flesh colors you can come up with and please share any ideas you may have below in the comments section. Happy painting!

Underground Update: Kickstarter III

The Underground Lasers Kickstarter is coming to a close in less than 2 days and the goal is within grasp! If you’ve been pondering becoming a backer, Francisco has added a few new Stretch Goals to entice your geeky appetite. If that isn’t enough to make you join the cool kids, here are some pictures of sexy terrain painted by yours truly. Enjoy!

SmallDouble

Small Double Tower

SmallPlatforms

Small Platforms