“In WARMACHINE warcaster’s true strength lies in his ability to control and coordinate the mighty combat automatons at the heart of his forces—his warjacks. Each and every warjack is a looming ironclad behemoth, a coal-fired engine of destruction with a primitive magical brain in addition to its unique weapons and capabilities. On its own a warjack is capable of only the most rudimentary actions, but when controlled by a warcaster its efficiency and deadliness increase dramatically. Using his warjacks wisely can decide a battle for a seasoned warcaster.”
Rhulic warkjacks are some of my favorite models in the Privateer Press line. They have a unique design, easy to assemble, and a real treat to paint. I’m especially pleased with all the battle damage. It adds grittiness to the models and doubles as an easy way to disguise any messy blends. Next post, solos and characters. Until then, keep your brush wet and your nose dry!
Been a long time since I picked up a Privateer Press model. I have a few armies painted up for both Warmachine and Hordes and really like the steampunk fantasy theme. So while looking through my figure cases this weekend, I decided to take a trip down memory lane with my Rhulic Mercenary force. First up, Warcasters!
Gorten Grundback, Rhulic Mercenary Warcaster
Gorten is the first model I painted for my Mercenary army years ago. I love this model! He’s one of the original boxed Warcasters in the Privateer Press line and the sculpt still looks great next to newer designs. The color scheme came out better than I’d expected. Using Vallejo Game Color, I went with a very earthy palette to go with the rough and rugged feel of these dwarf heroes.
Durgen Madhammer, Rhulic Mercenary Warcaster
Durgen Madhammer is an explosive expert and lover of mayhem. Sure his hammer is impossibly large and his canon would send his little ass flying from the recoil, but damn it he looks so bad ass! One of my favorite things about this miniature is the option to model his blast shield up (as seen here) or down.
Anywho, that’s a wrap for this post. Next I’ll post some pics of some Warjacks; steam-powered automatons of destruction! Thanks for visiting and happy painting.
The EVO repeater is complete! The final green details were done using a base coat of P3′s Necrotite Green/Morrow White (50/50) followed by a wash of Necrotite Green and finally a dot of Morrow White. I also used the Necrotite Green wash for the outer glow.
Nomad Salyut Zond EVO Repeater
Nomad Salyut Zond EVO Repeater
What Zond would be complete with out a hacker to control it? None I tell ya! So here we have a Alguacil Hacker, looking all sexy-nice with here green haired self.
Yes I know she has no eyes, but I was tired. But I don’t wanna. Fine, it looks like i have some eyes to paint. TTYL
Hello! We’re almost done painting this lovely Nomad EVO Repeater. Just a few more colors to go! The steps used here are the same as my previous two posts so I’ll try not to bore you with the same old jibber jabber. Let’s get to it.
Before base-coating with Ghost White, I gave the EVO a light spray of clear matte varnish. This helps in two ways: 1) It makes it easier to quickly clean off any mistakes without removing the paint underneath, and 2) It prevents the color underneath from bleeding through to the next color. I’ve been trying this a lot recently and I’ve found that it makes base coating from color to color much easier.
Shadows with a wash of Snow Shadow. I did this twice making sure to let the paint dry fully between layers. Otherwise I’d end up with nasty streaks.
And then a pretty heavy highlight of Pure White. A little sloppy but that’s okay.
I then cleaned it up with a watered down mix of Pure White and Ghost White. Next is black but i’ll keep this brief.
Final highlight. The last thing it needs is some green lights. and a photo shoot. I’ll post all that next. Hope you learned something. Keep painting!
Hello again fellow lover of cool things! In my last post I explained the steps I took to paint orange on this very cool EVO repeater. Let’s continue now with the color blue. Or is that aqua? Whatever, just follow my lead.
First we start with the base-coat. I think this is the most important step when painting a model. It’s like building a house; you need a solid and even foundation or else the rest of it goes to shit. So take your time, keep your paint smooth and thin (like milk) and listen to your favorite podcast.
Next up is shading with a wash of Deep Ocean. As you can tell in the picture, I’m a bit messy with this step. It’s all good tho because in the next I cleaned it up and smoothed it out. That could be an R. Kelly song.
Here’s where I tried smoothing the blend between the base-coat color and the shade color. I used a mix of Deep Ocean/Marine Teal (60/40) and watered them down with a mix of H2O/Flo-Aid (20/1) to create a wash. Then I used this wash to smooth out the middle area between the two colors.
Note: These Reaper Master Series Paints have a really nice quality pigment; great for washes and layered blends.
Highlights with Surf Aqua. The contrast is a little too stark for my taste. Let’s fix that…
…with another wash of Deep Ocean/Marine Teal. That’s better!
And then I redid the highlight a little thinner. Nicey nice, with beans and rice!
On to the next color: WHITE!
It’s Remote time baby! After painting a bunch of regular infantry for my Corregidor army, I decided it was time to paint up a Zond or two. What’s a Zond? A quick look at the Infinity website tells us, “Basically, it is a kind of semi-autonomous robotic porter, a high-tech beast of burden.” So let’s get to it!
As you can see here, the base is already done. I usually dry-brush bases (which is pretty messy) first then move onto the more neat work. It also looks better on the table to have all my bases finished even if eveything else is a work in progress.
I also did a quick base coat of metallic paint followed by a wash of black and a base-coat of orange.
The initial coat of Jokaero Orange acts more like a primer for this coat of Fire Orange. It would’ve taken a lot more coats of this color to get good coverage. Too much paint bad!
Next I added a wash of Phoenix Red. The key to making a nice, smooth wash is adding a bit of Flo-Aid and water. I keep a separate dropper bottle of Flo-aid/H2O mix (1/20) at my paint station. Use it!
This step is all about contrast. I used Reikland Fleshshade to define the spaces between the armor plates.
And finally a highlight of Marigold Yellow. Afterward I went back and picked out any mistakes or rough areas.
So there you have it. Orange is done. Later this week I’ll post the next color, BLUE! Oh snappy!
I’ve been ask to paint a prototype model for an upcoming Kickstarter project. It’s for a game called Temporus and is based on old school, side scrolling action. During some levels of the game you fly around in a space cruiser shooting foes in an obscene deluge of firepower. It looks like a lot of fun and the character designs are top-notch.
The creator would like to offer painted versions of the games iconic Cruiser. That’s where I come in. Here’s some pictures of the 3D render and my painted version below. Enjoy!
Temporus Cruiser 3D Render
Temporus Cruiser-Painted Prototype
I used only Privateer Press Paints (P3) for this model. The main reason being that they have great coverage and pretty nice selection of earth tone colors. P3 dries with a semi gloss finish that I find distracting, but finished with a spay of Matte Varnish and it’s all good. I also used good old Agrax Earthshade (GW) for shading.
Here are the colors used:
Green: Base-coat 50/50 mix of Thornwood Green/Ordic Olive. Wash of Agrax Earthshade. Highlight of Ordic Olive up to 50/50 mix of Ordic Olive/Thrall Flesh.
Brown: Base-coat Gun Corps Brown. Wash of Agrax Earthshade. Highlight of Gun Corps Brown up to Rucksack Tan.
Blue rockets: Arcane Blue up to Morrow White.
Orange Lights: Khador Red Highlight up to Cygnar Yellow.
So keep a look out for when this Kickstarter comes around. Later space cadets!