The EVO repeater is complete! The final green details were done using a base coat of P3’s Necrotite Green/Morrow White (50/50) followed by a wash of Necrotite Green and finally a dot of Morrow White. I also used the Necrotite Green wash for the outer glow.
Nomad Salyut Zond EVO Repeater
Nomad Salyut Zond EVO Repeater
What Zond would be complete with out a hacker to control it? None I tell ya! So here we have a Alguacil Hacker, looking all sexy-nice with here green haired self.
Yes I know she has no eyes, but I was tired. But I don’t wanna. Fine, it looks like i have some eyes to paint. TTYL
Hello! We’re almost done painting this lovely Nomad EVO Repeater. Just a few more colors to go! The steps used here are the same as my previous two posts so I’ll try not to bore you with the same old jibber jabber. Let’s get to it.
Before base-coating with Ghost White, I gave the EVO a light spray of clear matte varnish. This helps in two ways: 1) It makes it easier to quickly clean off any mistakes without removing the paint underneath, and 2) It prevents the color underneath from bleeding through to the next color. I’ve been trying this a lot recently and I’ve found that it makes base coating from color to color much easier.
Shadows with a wash of Snow Shadow. I did this twice making sure to let the paint dry fully between layers. Otherwise I’d end up with nasty streaks.
And then a pretty heavy highlight of Pure White. A little sloppy but that’s okay.
I then cleaned it up with a watered down mix of Pure White and Ghost White. Next is black but i’ll keep this brief.
Final highlight. The last thing it needs is some green lights. and a photo shoot. I’ll post all that next. Hope you learned something. Keep painting! 🙂
Hello again fellow lover of cool things! In my last post I explained the steps I took to paint orange on this very cool EVO repeater. Let’s continue now with the color blue. Or is that aqua? Whatever, just follow my lead. 🙂
First we start with the base-coat. I think this is the most important step when painting a model. It’s like building a house; you need a solid and even foundation or else the rest of it goes to shit. So take your time, keep your paint smooth and thin (like milk) and listen to your favorite podcast.
Next up is shading with a wash of Deep Ocean. As you can tell in the picture, I’m a bit messy with this step. It’s all good tho because in the next I cleaned it up and smoothed it out. That could be an R. Kelly song.
Here’s where I tried smoothing the blend between the base-coat color and the shade color. I used a mix of Deep Ocean/Marine Teal (60/40) and watered them down with a mix of H2O/Flo-Aid (20/1) to create a wash. Then I used this wash to smooth out the middle area between the two colors.
Note: These Reaper Master Series Paints have a really nice quality pigment; great for washes and layered blends.
Highlights with Surf Aqua. The contrast is a little too stark for my taste. Let’s fix that…
…with another wash of Deep Ocean/Marine Teal. That’s better!
And then I redid the highlight a little thinner. Nicey nice, with beans and rice!
On to the next color: WHITE!
It’s Remote time baby! After painting a bunch of regular infantry for my Corregidor army, I decided it was time to paint up a Zond or two. What’s a Zond? A quick look at the Infinity website tells us, “Basically, it is a kind of semi-autonomous robotic porter, a high-tech beast of burden.” So let’s get to it!
As you can see here, the base is already done. I usually dry-brush bases (which is pretty messy) first then move onto the more neat work. It also looks better on the table to have all my bases finished even if eveything else is a work in progress.
I also did a quick base coat of metallic paint followed by a wash of black and a base-coat of orange.
The initial coat of Jokaero Orange acts more like a primer for this coat of Fire Orange. It would’ve taken a lot more coats of this color to get good coverage. Too much paint bad!
Next I added a wash of Phoenix Red. The key to making a nice, smooth wash is adding a bit of Flo-Aid and water. I keep a separate dropper bottle of Flo-aid/H2O mix (1/20) at my paint station. Use it! 🙂
This step is all about contrast. I used Reikland Fleshshade to define the spaces between the armor plates.
And finally a highlight of Marigold Yellow. Afterward I went back and picked out any mistakes or rough areas.
So there you have it. Orange is done. Later this week I’ll post the next color, BLUE! Oh snappy!