Repeat After Me: Black & White

Hello! We’re almost done painting this lovely Nomad EVO Repeater. Just a few more colors to go! The steps used here are the same as my previous two posts so I’ll try not to bore you with the same old jibber jabber. Let’s get to it.

EVO-White1

Before base-coating with Ghost White, I gave the EVO a light spray of clear matte varnish. This helps in two ways: 1) It makes it easier to quickly clean off any mistakes without removing the paint underneath, and 2) It prevents the color underneath from bleeding through to the next color. I’ve been trying this a lot recently and I’ve found that it makes base coating from color to color much easier.

EVO-White2

Shadows with a wash of Snow Shadow. I did this twice making sure to let the paint dry fully between layers. Otherwise I’d end up with nasty streaks.

EVO-White3

And then a pretty heavy highlight of Pure White. A little sloppy but that’s okay.

EVO-White4

I then cleaned it up with a watered down mix of Pure White and Ghost White. Next is black but i’ll keep this brief.

EVO-Black1

Base-coat.

EVO-Black2

Wash.

EVO-Black3

First highlight.

EVO-Black4

Final highlight. The last thing it needs is some green lights. and a photo shoot. I’ll post all that next. Hope you learned something. Keep painting! 🙂

Repeat After Me: Blue!

Hello again fellow lover of cool things! In my last post I explained the steps I took to paint orange on this very cool EVO repeater. Let’s continue now with the color blue. Or is that aqua? Whatever, just follow my lead. 🙂

EVO-Blue1

First we start with the base-coat. I think this is the most important step when painting a model. It’s like building a house; you need a solid and even foundation or else the rest of it goes to shit. So take your time, keep your paint smooth and thin (like milk) and listen to your favorite podcast.

EVO-Blue2

Next up is shading with a wash of Deep Ocean. As you can tell in the picture, I’m a bit messy with this step. It’s all good tho because in the next I cleaned it up and smoothed it out. That could be an R. Kelly song.

EVO-Blue3

Here’s where I tried smoothing the blend between the base-coat color and the shade color. I used a mix of Deep Ocean/Marine Teal (60/40) and watered them down with a mix of H2O/Flo-Aid (20/1) to create a wash. Then I used this wash to smooth out the middle area between the two colors.

Note: These Reaper Master Series Paints have a really nice quality pigment; great for washes and layered blends.

EVO-Blue4

Highlights with Surf Aqua. The contrast is a little too stark for my taste. Let’s fix that…

EVO-Blue5

…with another wash of Deep Ocean/Marine Teal. That’s better!

EVO-Blue6

And then I redid the highlight a little thinner. Nicey nice, with beans and rice!

On to the next color: WHITE!

Repeat After Me: Orange!

It’s Remote time baby! After painting a bunch of regular infantry for my Corregidor army, I decided it was time to paint up a Zond or two. What’s a Zond? A quick look at the Infinity website tells us, “Basically, it is a kind of semi-autonomous robotic porter, a high-tech beast of burden.” So let’s get to it!

EVO-Orange1

As you can see here, the base is already done. I usually dry-brush bases (which is pretty messy) first then move onto the more neat work. It also looks better on the table to have all my bases finished even if eveything else is a work in progress.

I also did a quick base coat of metallic paint followed by a wash of black and a base-coat of orange.

EVO-Orange2

The initial coat of Jokaero Orange acts more like a primer for this coat of Fire Orange. It would’ve taken a lot more coats of this color to get good coverage. Too much paint bad!

EVO-Orange3

Next I added a wash of Phoenix Red. The key to making a nice, smooth wash is adding a bit of Flo-Aid and water. I keep a separate dropper bottle of Flo-aid/H2O mix (1/20) at my paint station. Use it! 🙂

EVO-Orange4

This step is all about contrast. I used Reikland Fleshshade to define the spaces between the armor plates.

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And finally a highlight of Marigold Yellow. Afterward I went back and picked out any mistakes or rough areas.

So there you have it. Orange is done. Later this week I’ll post the next color, BLUE! Oh snappy!

Special Delivery

While rummaging through my office mailroom I came across some shipping boxes and had a eureka moment. Easy super cheap terrain for Infinity! So here’s what I did.

Terrain-UPS1

First I assembled the boxes as usual and sliced the ends off 3″ deep.

Terrain-UPS2

Then I cut out some scrap card (2 1/4″ tall) to support the “roof top” and glued them into place.

Terrain-UPS3

Finally, I cut out another scrap piece of cardboard for the roof top and rest it on top of the supports. I kept these unglued and removable for storing smaller terrain pieces inside.

Terrain-UPS4

Voilà! Here’s the final design. You can use the terrain piece just like this or you can take it a little further…

Terrain-UPS5

…like so! I printed out some 3D textures that I found online from this website. Then I used some double stick tape to adhere it to the box. It’s just like wrapping a gift. Super easy and super cheap.

Terrain-PaperUPS

Here’s a group shot of my Nomads playing in their new sandbox. Have fun my little minions. Deploy!

WIP

Since I started my blog, I’ve gotten great feedback and support from fellow miniature painters. I’ve also received a lot of questions from friends and family who don’t paint minis. So in this post I just wanted to give a very brief and basic run through of painting a model. In the future I’ll get more in-depth with my descriptions.

Clean the Model

Clean the Model

The very first thing that I do is clean the model of all imperfections such as mold lines, gaps and miscast areas. This Bonehead had some pretty nasty mold lines that I simply shaved off with an Exacto knife. He also has a big gap in his base that I filled in with some epoxy “green stuff”. Once all the touch ups are done I wash the model down with some warm water to remove any dust, chemicals and oil.

Priming

Priming

After cleaning is all done I prime the models. This is first step in painting the model and doing it right could me the difference between a pleasant experience and an awful one. The main thing is to prime in good dry weather that’s not too cold. Do it outdoors or else in a very well ventilated area. I prime out of my 2nd floor apartment window, which sucks when you accidentally drop a model to its DOOM. This is why I like to tape my figures down to a piece of board.

Primed

Primed

I don’t really have a preference for the color of primer that I use. It really depends on the project. If I’m planning on painting a lot of armor, I’ll use a metallic primer; if I plan on painting a lot of leather, I’ll use brown primer. I recently started using a combination of black primer first followed by a light dusting of white (a technique referred to as zenithal lighting miniature painters). I’ve found this to be great for bringing out the details in the model which makes paining and visualizing the final product much easier. Plus, it looks cool!

Base Coat

Base Coat

So now my model is all primed and ready to get painted. I start with base-coating the model with all the mid-tone colors. Base coating is by far my least favorite step of painting any model. It’s also the most important step. If you leave the paint too thick you’ll ruin the fine details and end up with an ugly blobby looking mini. If you water your paint down too much you’ll be painting base-coats all day. So you have to find that perfect Goldie Locks zone. This comes with practice but a general rule of thumb is to keep your paint consistency milk-like.

Washes

Washes

The next step I usually do for my model is give it a full body wash. A wash is a very watered down layer of pigment which, in this case, is used to create more depth and shading in the model. On this Bonehead I used a brown wash over the majority of the model, and a purple wash over the purple areas (duh).

Poof

At this point I recite a brief, magical incantation and place the model in the oven for 10 minutes at 350˚ and presto! The miniature is complete. Allow the model to cool for a few minutes and enjoy. 🙂

All Done!

All Done!

Okay, so the next few steps I won’t go into a lot of detail here. It involves a few techniques like blending, layering, dry-brushing and highlights, but I’ll get into all those in a future post.

Disclaimer: Don’t be a doofus and actually put your models in an oven. Later gators!