Underground Lasers: Generic Colonial House

Generic Colonial House

Underground Lasers has a new terrain piece available on their website! The Generic Colonial House is a simple build with a removable door, and roof for access to the interior. The size and practical design can be used for many genres. Painting it was pretty simple too, with just enough details to keep me from feeling bored. I assembled the entire model before painting because I was too anxious to see what it looked like (curse my impatience). In hindsight, I recommend painting all the components separately and then assembling it. Using that process I can see painting several of these in a weekend. Check out the rest of their cool models at UndergroundLasers.com

 

Underground Update: Terrain and Airbrush Musing

For quite some time now I’ve heard raving reviews about airbrushing. Being the stubborn ass that I am, I refused to jump on the bandwagon. However after much carful consideration (and an ever growing pile of models that needed to get done quickly) I decided to take the plunge. I figured the best place to start practicing would be terrain, namely my Underground Lasers Kickstarter terrain. Here’s some pics of what I’ve been working on along with some babble about my entry into the world of airbrushing.

BBQ Lizard

Underground Lasers, BBQ Lizard Stand

Before I continue, I should mention that I’ve been working with Francisco, the owner of Underground Lasers, for some time on his latest Kickstarter project. You can view pictures here. Those models are really my first go at using an airbrush and I think my technique has improved a lot since then.

ShogunBurger

Underground Lasers, Shogun Burger Shack

 

Back then I was using low budget equipment and a loud-ass, smelly compressor. I bought it from a friend and it smelled like a moldy basement whenever I turned it on. A few months later, I purchased an entire set of Bagder Minitaire Airbrush Paint and a Badger Sotar 20/20 airbrush. Holy rusted metal Batman, what a difference!

 

Underground Lasers, Barricades

Underground Lasers, Barricades

 

If you’re a frugal individual like myself, then you hate feeling uncertain about any investment, much less an expensive one. That being said, if you plan on getting into airbrushing, I recommend buying the most expensive machine you can afford. You’ll be better off for it. The set up I ended up with was $300 to $400 (USD) and I don’t regret it.

Underground Lasers, Containers

Underground Lasers, Containers

Also, do yourself a favor and don’t bother mixing your own paint. It’s extremely tedious, time consuming and frustrating. Purchase a set of legit airbrush paint in a few colors (black, gray, white and some primary colors are a good start). Most of all practice and experiment!

Haqq-Groupshot

Thanks for reading and happy painting.

Holy Rusted Metal!

Metal is hard to maintain. It get’s gritty, looses it’s luster, accumulates rust and eventually falls apart but that’s why we love it. It grows character with age. In this post I’ll cover my technique for painting my favorite of all metals, the rusted kind. Come sit, and paint with me.

Rust1Firstly, I designed these 55mm bases for use on some of my Infinity models. By using sheets of platicard, corrugated cardboard, aluminum wire, and even a BIC pen, I was able to create an industrial look. I highly recommend trying this project out to any hobbyist. Just go nuts and have fun.

Rust2Once the bases were built I spray painted them using Army Painter’s Platemail Metal. It’s not the best surface to paint on being that it’s so glossy, so I also sprayed a coat of clear matte varnish over it.

Rust3Next is a heavy wash of P3’s Battledress Green. I like to mix in a little bit of Liquitex’s Flo-Aid to keep the paint flowing a bit more evenly.

 Rust4Another wash of P3’s Battledress Green. This time I try to focus more on the recesses.
Rust5Here I applied a heavy dry-brush of Citadel’s Iron Breaker to help bring back the shiny. Rust6To create that signature reddish rust color I applied a wash of P3’s Bloodstone. Once again focusing on the recesses and crevasses.  Rust7To add more contrast and grit, I carefully applied a wash of Citadel’s Agrax Earthshade. Rust8Next I used a careful application of RMSP’s Brown Liner. This helps define the edges and enhance the details. Rust9 Finally, I go back with some Citadel Iron Breaker using a fine detail brush to pick out some of the edges of the metal. I also painted the sheets of “paper” on the base using some browns and tans.
See, not too shabby looking and not very difficult to do. Try this out on your metals. You can easily apply these techniques to any metal color. Perhaps patinated copper, or burnished brass. Thanks for reading and happy painting!

Underground Update: Kickstarter III

The Underground Lasers Kickstarter is coming to a close in less than 2 days and the goal is within grasp! If you’ve been pondering becoming a backer, Francisco has added a few new Stretch Goals to entice your geeky appetite. If that isn’t enough to make you join the cool kids, here are some pictures of sexy terrain painted by yours truly. Enjoy!

SmallDouble

Small Double Tower

SmallPlatforms

Small Platforms

 

Underground Lasers III: Mining Outpost Alpha

I’ve been super busy collaborating with Francisco Branco for his current Kickstarter project. Frank is the owner, creator, and creative mastermind behind Underground Lasers and his most recent project is pretty bad ass. Here’s some pictures of this very cool and unique kit painted by yours truly.

BasicTower

Basic Platform

Walkway

Walkway

InnerStaircaseTower

Platform Inner Stairs

PackageDeal1

Package Deal 1

TwoTierTower

2 Tier Tower

I feel really lucky for the opportunity to get my hands on these terrain pieces before the KS release. The kit’s got a very unique design and most awesome of all, it’s completely collapsible! I can fit all the items you see here inside of a cereal box. Plus the many components leave a lot of room for customization.
Thanks to Francisco Branco for trusting me to paint this up for him, Nestor Medina from WGC for referring me and Ade Sanya from Nu Brand Gaming for letting me to use his shop for most of my airbrushing. You guys are the best!
I’ll keep posting up more pictures of fully painted sets throughout the month of December. So keep a look out for them here and on the official Underground Lasers Kickstarter Page. Thanks for reading and happy gaming!

What’s in the Box?

Nomad-1

Salyut Zond, Gecko Squad, Tsyklon Sputnik

Hello there fellow tabletop gamers (there’s one inside us all). Recently, I posted this image onto Wargamers Consortium-Infinity, a great Facebook group moderated by a friend of mine, Nestor Medina. Big shout out homie! To kickoff the new group WGC-I hosted a painting challenge, and these are my entries. However, this post isn’t going to be about the models, it’s going to be about the swanky crates you see in the background. What if I told you that for pennies a day you too can cover starving tabletops with terrain such as this? Well you can, and here’s how.

Here’s what you’ll need:
– Box cutter or X-Acto knife
– Corrugated paper
– Scissors
– Tape
– Paper glue
– Marker
– Cardboard granola bar or cereal box
ShippingCrate-Assembly21I’m not the most precise person when it comes to building terrain, which is why I like to use already made boxes as my underlying structure. Using this granola box I’ll be able to make two 2″ x 2″ x 6.5″ shipping crates with clean right angles.
ShippingCrate-Assembly20
First, tape the open end closed. I can’t be the only person that destroys the packaging on these boxes when I open them. So that’s what the tape is for. 🙂
ShippingCrate-Assembly19
Next, 2″ measurements along the long edges of the box. Two is an easy number to remember, and fits the 28mm scale of all my tabletop games nicely.
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Cutting time! Okay, so slicing into a box that’s already assembled can be dangerous and unstable, but I find it to be way faster than deconstructing, cutting then reconstructing it. All that being said, I always do several light passes with a very sharp blade. Also, cut only the long sides using a blade and then finish the shorter sides with a scissor. Don’t worry if this doesn’t look super neat and accurate. You can fix that later.
ShippingCrate-Assembly14 ShippingCrate-Assembly13
I bought a 30″ x 20″ sheet of this corrugated paper from an art store for about 3 dollars. It’s great stuff and comes in several different colors. Since then, I’ve found it online for even cheaper.
ShippingCrate-Assembly12
ShippingCrate-Assembly11 ShippingCrate-Assembly10
ShippingCrate-Assembly9
After cutting the paper into 2″ long strips I glue them onto the sides of the crate using paper craft glue. Turn the box top-side down onto your table. This’ll help keep the edges of the paper flush to the top of your crate. Then cut off the excess flap of paper with a scissor.
ShippingCrate-Assembly8 ShippingCrate-Assembly7 ShippingCrate-Assembly6
Do the same fro the top of your crate, and you’re almost done with construction!
Next I sliced a few .5″ stips of cereal box card.
ShippingCrate-Assembly4
Add some glue along the top edges of the box…
ShippingCrate-Assembly3
…and along the strips of card.
ShippingCrate-Assembly2
Then snip off the excess.
ShippingCrate-Assembly1
And there you have the final constructed product. Now this is a very simple concept, but you can do all kinds of interesting stuff using these simple techniques. Perhaps you’d like to add doors to your crate, or use this idea on bigger boxes to make entire buildings? Do your thing and have fun. 🙂
ShippingCrate-Assembly0In my next post I’ll show you how to paint this bad boy up and add detail using stencils and posters. Thanks for reading and happy building!